![]() As you'll see from this example, I'm a frequent user of popsicle sticks. Many people reading my blogs have seen my simple projects on YouTube. Note that I put masking tape around the screen to minimise movement in its case. Third and most important, because it still has its back on, you can screw on a VESA mount to attach the screen to the wall. Second, if you save the bezel, you can easily reclaim your screen. First, it keeps all the electronics safe and protected. Unlike other builds, I did not remove the screen entirely from its housing. A snug fit of the screen against the mask/screen to make sure light doesn't penetrate from the sides.A black mask that fits behind the entire glass, with a space cut exactly where the screen will fit.When you extract this frame, you can easily access and remove the glass, replacing it with your own mirror glass.Īnd this is where the genius begins. This frame fits snugly inside the outer frame and holds the back and front apart. The space between the glass and back is created by a removable internal frame. How could I do this if the glass was set 3cm in front? When I first saw it in IKEA, I thought it wouldn't work I knew I needed to make the screen flush with the glass. It's basically a shallow box with glass is at the front. The frame is designed to place the picture about 3cm back, providing depth and shadow. It's that characteristic that simplifies construction. If you look carefully at the photo above you'll see that the frame has depth - and the passe-partout appears to be set at the back of the frame. You'll understand the concept better towards the end when I attach the screen to the wall. In my Magic Mirror it is the screen that supports the frame, not the other way around. In my build, I've reversed this situation - making my Mirror much lighter, cheaper and easier. Invariably they have a wooden bar across the back to hold the screen in place. Most builds seem to use a heavy wooden frame to support the substantial weight of the screen. In constructing my Mirror I did something I haven't seen elsewhere. Unfortunately these brands may not be available outside North America. Mirroview - this one seems to be designed specifically for computer screen scenarios.That said, from my research I came to the conclusion that two mirrors from Pilkington are probably the best available: I scoured the internet looking for the definition of the "best ratio of reflectivity/transparency." Most sources say 70% reflective, 30% transparent is ideal. Acrylic is good because it's very light, but from experience, I think it's better for smaller mirrors only. Personally, I used 3mm acrylic and although it looks great, I'd prefer to replace it with glass that eliminates distortion. ![]() ![]() See here for discussions about acquiring in different places. It can be difficult to get in many countries. The glass/acrylic for the mirror is about the hardest component to get right.
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